‘Jali’ as a symbol of syncretic India | New book by Navina Najat Haidar traces the evolution of this intricate lattice work

Jali walls, tomb of Muhammad Ghaus, Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh, c. 1565
| Photo Credit: Abhinav Goswami

In a famous passage in the Koran, as the Prophet Muhammad flees to Medina to escape his enemies, he takes refuge in a cave in Jabal Thawr. As his captors close in, Allah sends one of His “invisible soldiers”, a spider, to protect the future leader of Islam. Blessed by the divine hand, the humble creature, within moments, weaves a thick web to cover the entrance of the hideout, misleading the pursuers into believing it is empty, thereby saving the Prophet’s life.

American art collector and scholar Stuart Cary Welch used to cite this incident as the origin story of the jali, the intricate lattice work decor commonly associated with mosques, palaces and cenotaphs. While it is impossible to ascertain the deific provenance of this architectural marvel, the jali remains ubiquitous across Asia. If you live in a city like Delhi, Ahmedabad, Jaipur or Hyderabad, jalis are everywhere. In fact, simply look around, and you’ll see grilles and meshes, lesser forms of jalis but jalis nonetheless.

Hilal Khan Qazi mosque, Dholka, Gujarat, 1333

Hilal Khan Qazi mosque, Dholka, Gujarat, 1333
| Photo Credit:
Abhinav Goswami

Navina Najat Haidar’s book on jalis is an urgent call to action to save these architectural marvels from neglect

Navina Najat Haidar’s book on jalis is an urgent call to action to save these architectural marvels from neglect

It is from an essay by Mitchell Abdul Karim Crites, another American art historian who has spent over 50 years working with Indian artisans, that we learn about Welch and art collectors like Doris Duke, who played a major role in popularising the jali in the West. Crites’ piece is part of a beautifully designed and richly informative book Jali: Lattice of Divine Light in Mughal Architecture (Mapin Publishing) by Navina Najat Haidar, curator-in-charge of the Department of Islamic Art at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. The piece is one among several tracing the evolution of the jali through time and geographies.

Living traditions

Embellished with vivid photographs by Abhinav Goswami, the book is as much a scholarly work as a vivid reminder of the living traditions that we take for granted or fail to notice. It traces the Roman and Persian origins of the jali, its flourishing as temple art in Gujarat and Vrindavan, restless evolution through the Sultanate era, and eventual apotheosis in the hands of the Mughals. Haidar takes us right up to modern times, where the form gets appropriated and reimagined by artists and architects as distinct as Edwin Lutyens and Mona Hatoum.

Navina Najat Haidar

Navina Najat Haidar

“Each of the patterns in this jali,” Haidar says pointing at the image from Neminath temple in Gujarat, “has a symbolic function.” To my untrained eyes, the squares resemble a code, a cipher to a language we don’t understand any more. In some instances, with jalis in Ibrahim Adil Shah’s tomb in Bijapur, Karnataka, for example, there is indeed a literal calligraphic focus. In some of the arches, Koranic passages are inscribed on jalis, difficult to read unless you are trained, but quite a sight to behold.

An arched jali with seven trees, Sidi Sayyid Mosque, Ahmedabad, Gujarat,

An arched jali with seven trees, Sidi Sayyid Mosque, Ahmedabad, Gujarat,
| Photo Credit:
Abhinav Goswami

Historically, jalis have been put to myriad uses. From acting as a veil between the women of elite families and the outside world, to helping modulate the temperature inside chambers, to directing sunlight at a specific angle on tombs, their functions have evolved depending on the context in which they appeared. Each pattern in the jali repertoire has meanings that are immutable. “The stars and hexagon shapes point to a celestially inspired language,” Haidar says, “while repeating patterns create an illusion of infinity, which, in turn, acts as an allusion to the divine.”

In a striking departure, flowery trellises woven in the style of jalis, which adorn the Krishna temple in Vrindavan, convey a different kind of cosmic message as compared to a jali by a tribal artist in Chhattisgarh. This fluid life of the jali in India’s history and public domain is testament to the syncretic spirit that runs through this country.

The latticed windows of Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

The latticed windows of Hawa Mahal, Jaipur
| Photo Credit:
Abhinav Goswami

The zenith of this tradition was during Shah Jahan’s reign, with jalis surrounded by complex inlay work influenced by the Italian pietra dura style. Scholar Ebba Koch says, since Shah Jahan thought of himself as the “sun king”, the jalis of his time are replete with blooms, nourished by his princely glow. And so, all the flowers of Mumtaz Mahal’s garden house are replicated on her tomb in the Taj Mahal, a reminder of the undying love of her “sun king” and the earthly delights that once filled her heart.

Hidden in plain sight

In spite of its scholarly value, Haidar’s book is an urgent call to all non-historians to pay attention to the beautiful edifices casually strewn across the length and breadth of India, being desecrated by political troublemakers, neglected by bureaucrats, and ignored by citizens. Jali: Lattice of Divine Light in Mughal Architecture opens up a world that readers cannot unsee every time they chance upon a niche in a humble haveli or a latticed window in a famous monument. It also reminds us that though they may be few and far between, we still have among us makers of jalis, keepers of an ancient and specialised knowledge, some of them descendants of the very builders who erected the Taj Mahal.

Floral vase jali, Diwan-i Khas, Agra Fort, c. 1631

Floral vase jali, Diwan-i Khas, Agra Fort, c. 1631
| Photo Credit:
Abhinav Goswami

Recounting a project for the building of a mosque in Malaysia, Crites mentions bringing in retired master builders to train the younger jali-makers. “These elderly master carvers used to sit in the market and drink tea,” he says, “but when we got them to the younger men, they took up the chisel and started teaching them. Their hands were no longer strong enough to do the work, but they knew how to pass on their knowledge.”

Hopefully, books like Haidar’s will humanise the cold, marmoreal elegance of architecture into more intergenerational encounters.

The writer is based in Delhi.

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Tech titans’ vision for a new city in Northern California raises concerns

Silicon Valley tech tycoons on Thursday announced their intentions of building a new city in Northern California. The billionaire investors have to date spent over $900 million to acquire more than 50,000 acres of land in Solano County. Local and US officials, however, have raised concerns about what one Congressman calls “a vision”, not “a plan”.

Investing through a company named California Forever, which saw the launch of its official website on Thursday, tech billionaires are laying out the blueprint for a dream city in Northern California.

On its website, California Forever said it has acquired over 50,000 acres (or 202 square kilometres) of land through its subsidiary – Flannery Associates – in eastern Solano County, which is nestled between Sacramento, the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, San Francisco and Napa Valley in Northern California.

Located at the crossroads of major Northern California cities, Solano County is touted by the company as the perfect place to build the dream city from scratch.

While the website did not disclose the amount that has been injected into the project, the New York Times on Tuesday reported investments of over $900 million in land purchases alone over the past five years.

Founded in 2017 by former Goldman Sachs trader Jan Sramek, California Forever is backed by Silicon Valley heavyweights such as Laurene Powell Jobs, Marc Andreessen, Michael Moritz and John Doerr, among others.

A project shrouded in secrecy

Until Thursday, very little was known about California Forever and Flannery Associates. The parent company and its subsidiary have remained extremely discreet regarding their operations in Northern California.

While Flannery managed to keep most of its activities under wraps, local authorities were alerted when the company started acquiring vast expanses of land, and at prices often well above market rates, until it became Solano County’s largest landowner.

The identity of the company and its billionaire investors only came to light following an investigation led by US federal authorities, who raised concerns of national security after Flannery bought land parcels surrounding Travis Air Force Base, a major base located in Solano County’s seat of Fairfield.

According to the Wall Street Journal, the Air Force’s Foreign Investment Risk Review Office launched a probe in late 2022 into Flannery’s purchases of roughly 52,000 acres in Solano County, including around Travis.

Fears that Flannery was representing foreign interests, especially Chinese, were soon dispelled as Silicon Valley tech titans, who unveiled their project of building a dream city, emerged as backers of the company.

City of dreams?

Citing European cities as inspiration, Flannery said it aims to build liveable communities and walkable neighbourhoods while providing “good-paying local jobs” to residents.

Flannery also revealed plans to build tens of thousands of homes, a solar farm, parks and other open spaces in the eastern part of the county.

Despite the company’s ambitious plans, local authorities have expressed worries regarding the feasibility of the project.

Pointing to Solano County’s dry weather conditions, Fairfield Mayor Catherine Moy said in an interview with abc7news that Flannery’s proposed plans are unrealistic.

“It’s an area that is known for its drought conditions. It makes zero sense. There’s no mass transit. It does not have fresh water. There is some water, but not enough for tens of thousands of homes,” Moy said.

Moy also voiced concerns regarding road infrastructure.

“The roads out there are already dangerous. Highway 12 is the highway that goes through there out to Highway 99 and Highway 5. It’s called Blood Alley for a reason,” Moy said. “There’s no way that tens of thousands of homes could be supported by that.”

While Flannery noted the need to improve local infrastructure on its website, it failed to provide details on how that could be achieved.

Other elected officials have joined Moy in voicing their concerns.

Following a meeting with Flannery representatives on Tuesday, US Representative Mike Thompson said: “They don’t have a plan, they have a vision, an idea,” the San Francisco Chronicle reported.

“To say that this is going to be a long, long road is probably an understatement,” he added.

Meanwhile, US Representative John Garamendi described as “strong-arm mobster tactics” the company’s method of purchasing the land, the Chronicle reported.

Tech follies

But this won’t be the first time that Silicon Valley tycoons have dreamed of pioneering cities without following through.

In 2013, Google cofounder and former CEO Larry Page floated the idea of creating a high-tech utopia with minimal regulation.

California start-up incubator Y Combinator set up a research lab in 2016 to study how to build better cities.

Paypal cofounder Peter Thiel launched a pilot project for floating cities in French Polynesia in 2018, and the New York Times reported the same year that Facebook was negotiating with the city of San Francisco for permits to build a town on the outskirts of Silicon Valley.

None of these proposals have come to fruition to date.

“In the end, it doesn’t even matter that these cities are built,” said University of Glasgow sociology professor Elisabetta Ferrari, who specialises in digital media. For the entrepreneurs and investors, rather, “the most important (thing) is that we talk about it”.

“They want to show that they are not just rich, they are also people with vision and entrepreneurs that are doing something for the people,” she said.

Housing workers

In an article published in April on Tesla CEO Elon Musk’s latest endeavours in Texas, which include building a town called Snailbrook aimed at housing employees, the Guardian compared corporation-built cities to 19th-century US industrial towns.

Offering only basic accommodation and meagre amenities, these towns “were often closer to prison camps than ideal cities”, the Guardian said, and noted that companies “want to minimise overheads and squeeze as much out of their captive townsfolk as they can get away with”.

Flannery aims to provide affordable housing near San Francisco, where many employers have been forced to increase salaries to attract or retain workers who are facing soaring rents in the city.

The number of tech tycoons proposing to build towns and cities in recent years “has a lot to do with the idea of ‘technosolutionism’. A concept that can be boiled down to ‘there is an app for that’,” Ferrari said, adding that it is “the idea that technology provides the best way to address a problem”.

These entrepreneurs and investors “are pitching themselves like they are the best to deal with [the problem], when, they say, political power cannot address efficiently modern urban development challenges”, she said. 

This article has been translated from the original in French.

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