This patch of ocean is one of the world’s most idyllic marine reserves

I’m busy chasing a shark, utterly distracted by watching this magnificent misunderstood creature underwater that I realise I’m missing out on a significant party above me.

You’ve got to have your wits about when scuba diving in one of Fiji’s most magical marine reserves. There’s so much to see, it’s easy to get distracted by anything from a tiny blue and white stripe nudibranch on the rocks, a confetti of orange and red reef fish in the corals, an unfurling feather sea star, or a twice-your-size apex predator cruising around the bottom.

I nearly missed a school of giant trevally encircling my dive buddies above me because I was so entranced by the grey reef shark hanging out at the bottom. Shimmers of silver flickering away above me, I drifted closer to the school, before also being encompassed into their formation.

Namena Marine Reserve is Fiji’s biggest no-take reserve, a horseshoe-shaped barrier reef measuring about 60km2 off the coast of Savusavu. This area off Vanua Levu, Fiji’s second largest island, is known as the soft coral capital of the world, with access to some of the greatest diving in the South Pacific. It’s home to over a thousand species of fish and more than 400 types of coral.

The best way to access it is from the Jean Michel Cousteau Resort’s dive centre. Carrying the revered Cousteau name, the PADI centre has a welcoming team of divemasters, scuba instructors and the resort’s in-house marine biologist Johnny Singh ready to give you the greatest underwater education and fish party of your life.

If you’ve never been scuba diving before, you can get certified in Savusavu and dive every day during your stay, to put it all into practice and gain more confidence. Experienced divers will travel from around the world to visit this region as there are plenty more advanced and expert dive sites to explore.

One diving couple staying at the resort, aged in their 70s and the wife recovering from knee surgery, had flown over from the US on a Pacific diving tour. You could not wipe the smiles off their faces on the boat, eyes as wide as saucers with pure unadulterated joy at what they’d seen below the surface. They’d been diving for decades, and yet Fiji still held incredible magic for this cute couple.

I’m sure it’s been said before – but diving in this region will make you feel like you’re on a real-life set of Finding Nemo. There’s so much activity going on at all depths, it’s hard to know where to look. Do I focus on the pink soft corals growing out from the boulders? Do I try to follow that giant wrasse? Zoom in on the tiny little movements of a shrimp hiding under a rock? Or swim along the ridgeline in the hope of seeing a shark?

I have dived in several places around the world but Fiji always stands out by a long shot. It’s not just for its vast array of thriving dive sites all over the islands, but the way the people make you feel. Known for their world-class hospitality, Fijians are some – if not the most – welcoming hosts in the world.

Those who became divemasters have intimate knowledge of the marine world, having grown up by the sea and understanding the importance of its rich life to a nation; be it to feed a village or to gain employment through tourism. The ocean is a key life source for so many Fijian communities.

Armed with an underwater whiteboard and pen, marine biologist Johnny Singh was just as excited as us to point out various marine life hiding in the underwater crevasses during our dives at Namena. Dive manager and instructor Geoff Koroi, a talented underwater photographer, ensured plenty of laughs throughout our trip while giving detailed dive briefs and helping every diver feel relaxed and in safe hands. I even managed to convince Koroi to try on my mermaid tail for a splash in the deep blue, and in doing so becoming Fiji’s first ever merman. Taks, Wane and Thomas were simply the most kind-hearted, focused and joyful divemasters you could find, there to literally hold the hands of any nervous new divers.

While in Savusavu, I discovered a confidence I had never enjoyed before, exploring an underwater cave sytem for the first time in my life at Shark Alley. The site Dreadlocks overflowed with beautiful yellow soft corals. Blue Ribbon and Grand Central within the Namena Marine Reserve were hands down the greatest dives I’ve ever done in my life.

Prior to arriving in Savusavu I’d spent several days at Matamanoa Island in the Mamanuca Island group, diving with Emma and Trevor Neal, who own the resort and dive centre there. It was there I completed two more PADI certifications – underwater photography and boat diving specialties, as I am trying to gain my Master Scuba Diver rating. Day by day, my confidence grew, my love for the ocean bolstered by the up-close-and-personal experiences I was getting each dive. By the time I arrived in Savusavu, I had settled into my dive rhythm, was more relaxed, learning to breathe slower underwater and therefore consume less air. The more air you have remaining in your tank, the longer you can stay underwater.

There’s something about a dedicated dive holiday, rather than just adding on a couple of dives on a free day, that I have done so often in the past on my travels. That daily experience of suiting up, heading out on the boat and exploring different topographies underwater is the greatest gift I could ever be given. Reaching my 49th dive in Savusavu, it’s like something has finally clicked.

For many years, diving has been just something I did. I enjoyed it, but was a nervous diver, and over the pandemic and time away from the water I lost inspiration and confidence and was unsure how much longer I would continue it. Now after my time in Fiji, I realise it is part of me, and I want to continue being an advocate for the ocean. I completed by 50th dive on the Great Barrier Reef a month later and am now planning to undertake more conservation and specialty courses with PADI to extend my knowledge. Scuba diving is a journey, both physical and emotional, and at times a great challenge when there are external pressures. But really, all you need to do is sink underwater, and breathe.

Essentials

Getting there: Fiji Airways flies direct to Nadi from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch daily, with connecting flights available to Savusavu. See: fijiairways.com

Carbon footprint: Flying generates carbon emissions. To reduce your impact, consider other ways of travelling, amalgamate your trips, and when you need to fly, consider offsetting emissions.

Staying there: Six-night dive and rejuvenation package available at Jean Michel Cousteau Resort from FJD$4560 per adult (NZ$3330). Two tank dive: FJD$495.00 (NZ$361) See: fijiresort.com

For more information on PADI’s certifications available, see padi.com/courses

The writer was hosted by Tourism Fiji and PADI.

This story was produced as a part of an editorial partnership with Tourism Associates. Read more about our partnership content here.