I spent a day being a tourist in my own city – here’s everything I did

At this time of year, I always start to crave a change of scene.

The summer holidays are a distant memory, and the prospect of slogging it through winter has me checking my inbox daily for a Grabaseat deal to Sydney or Melbourne.

But recently, another offer landed in my inbox: How about spending a day rediscovering my city centre?

It’s something Tourism New Zealand is keen for more of us to do, after their research found since Covid, Kiwis in the cities have got out of the habit of heading into town.

As someone who literally lives in the centre of Wellington, I initially scoffed at the idea. Surely I’m a poster child for inner-city exploration?

But then I thought about my daily routine. I wake up, walk to work, walk home. I spend most the weekend completing life admin. Sure, I have my favourite bars and restaurants – but that means I always end up going to the same places.

So, rather than spending money and leave on a trip to Australia, could spending a day rediscovering my own city help scratch the same itch? Here’s what I did.

I got up early and went out for breakfast

August Eatery is one of Wellington’s best new brunch spots.

Siobhan Downes/Stuff

August Eatery is one of Wellington’s best new brunch spots.

I couldn’t tell you the last time I woke up early enough on a Saturday to go out for breakfast. But with a full day of adventuring ahead, at 8am I made my way to August Eatery, one of the city’s hottest brunch spots.

Whenever I’ve walked past, it’s always been packed, but the earlybird gets the worm – or at least a prime table. It’s a minimalist, Mediterranean-inspired menu, and I went for the cacao granola with coconut yoghurt, which was like a grown-up take on Coco Pops. The best way to start the day.

I went for a wander

The He Tohu exhibition in the National Library is home to some of our greatest taonga.

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The He Tohu exhibition in the National Library is home to some of our greatest taonga.

One of the best things about visiting another city is wandering around, popping into shops, museums and galleries that catch your eye. But you rarely do that at home – if you’re walking somewhere, it’s because you’re on a mission.

I started on the waterfront – where you’ll find Te Papa, as well as the excellent Wellington Museum, City Gallery and New Zealand Portrait Gallery, places I always recommend to visitors from out of town.

But this time, I kept walking until I got near Parliament, and headed up the hill to the National Library. Here, you can see the original Treaty of Waitangi, as part of the He Tohu exhibition. The document is on display in a dark, atmospheric room alongside the Declaration of Independence, and the Women’s Suffrage Petition. It’s kind of amazing you can just wander in off the street and see some of our nation’s most important documents.

It was at the National Library I also discovered a hidden gem – the gift shop, Te Āmiki. I had no idea it existed, but there were so many cool, quirky things for sale, from jewellery and tote bags to prints by local artists. The next time I need to pick up a unique present, I know where I’ll go.

I had lunch at an old favourite

Olive has a lush outdoor courtyard.

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Olive has a lush outdoor courtyard.

I often take for granted that I live a few steps from one of the country’s most colourful shopping and dining destinations. But I had a much-needed reminder when dining at Olive, a Cuba Street institution.

This all-day eatery has a leafy courtyard tucked away out the back that is perfect for settling in for a long lunch – I had a salad with crispy chicken and horopito mayonnaise, with a fresh soda, lime and mint.

I visited a top attraction

Zealandia is an ecosanctuary located right on the city’s doorstep.

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Zealandia is an ecosanctuary located right on the city’s doorstep.

I always figured I’d get around to visiting Zealandia – the ecosanctuary located a 10-minute drive from the city centre – some day. Now I’ve finally been, I can’t understand why I haven’t visited sooner.

I had a general admission ticket ($24 adults), which let me explore the 32km of tracks at my leisure. Wandering through the regenerating forest, I felt like I was in a different place – a different era, even – spotting wildlife like takahē, tuatara and kākā that you wouldn’t imagine you could find right on the city’s doorstep.

I found an inner-city cellar door

A tasting paddle of interesting wines at the Wild Workshop.

Siobhan Downes/Stuff

A tasting paddle of interesting wines at the Wild Workshop.

Wellington is considered the craft beer capital, and I thought I was pretty familiar with all the best spots to go for a fresh brew. But I had completely overlooked one place – Garage Project’s Wild Workshop, located just off Taranaki Street.

I had often walked past the street art-covered warehouse, but what I didn’t realise is that it’s also a cellar door, open on Friday and Saturday evenings. As well as tasting paddles of their famous beers, samplers of their natural wines are on offer – I worked my way through a selection that ranged from fruity, fizzy drops to fairy bread-inspired blends.

I had dinner at a hot new spot

Papri chaat, or Indian-style nachos.

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Papri chaat, or Indian-style nachos.

I had visited Chaat Street when it first opened, but was keen to check it out in its new home on Willis Street. The restaurant offers Indian street food served tapas style, a combination that has proved so popular that they’ve been able to upgrade to the much bigger space (they’ve also just opened a restaurant in Auckland).

Standout dishes were the finger-licking papri chaat – kind of like Indian nachos – and keema pav, spiced lamb mince sandwiched between two buttery buns.

I went to a show

Rogue and Vagabond specialises in craft beer and live music.

Vanessa Rushton/Stuff

Rogue and Vagabond specialises in craft beer and live music.

Usually, I would be tempted to head home after dinner on a chilly Wellington evening. But I had tickets to a gig at Rogue and Vagabond, a craft beer bar that doubles as a live music venue.

The next time I complain about there being nothing to do in Wellington, I’ll be checking the events calendar – especially with the likes of Wellington On a Plate and the NZ International Comedy Festival currently on.

I spent the night in a hotel

One of the colourful rooms at Naumi Wellington.

Siobhan Downes/Stuff

One of the colourful rooms at Naumi Wellington.

Sure, I already have an inner-city base, but nothing makes you feel more in holiday mode than a hotel stay. I checked into the recently-opened Naumi Wellington on Cuba Street, which adds to the existing Naumi Studio Hotel. The 62 rooms in this new extension are much more spacious than your standard hotel rooms – they’re more like studio apartments, with the brand’s signature bright and bold interiors (I liked the rainbow-tinted wardrobe), and lots of fun touches, like a free minibar.

After a buffet breakfast the next morning, I checked out and walked the couple of blocks back to my own apartment – no taxi to book, or flight to catch – but feeling like I’d been a lot further.

The writer was hosted by Tourism New Zealand.



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